In Italy, a bar serves coffee and little beer - Italy part one

I arrived in Pisa very late and it was after midnight by the time we got to our hotel in San giuliano. After walking around the town looking in vain for some sign of life we gave up and went back to the hotel. The friendly guy behind the desk said he could sort us out with beer from the taps and I was introduced to my first Italian beer other than Nastro Azzurro and Peroni. This was from Birra Moretti and it was called La Rossa. At over 7% it was quite strong and not knowing anything about it I was very surprised to taste it. It tasted like a bock to me at the time and on further investigation it seems it is a dopplebock. I had no notes or camera as I figured I could get it again and take notes, sadly this little hotel was the only place that stocked it until I found one place in Rome but never got a chance to go in for a drink. What I remember was that it was a very lovely beer with a hint of sherbet fizziness but not enough to put me off.

The next day I did the sightseeing thing and saw the leaning tower before picking up the rental car and driving to Florence.

Florence was fantastic, lots of great restaurants and bars but it became pretty obvious at this point that a bar in Italy is a café and they usually only have one beer on tap and if you are lucky a few bottles, most of which are not Italian beer. I can not recommend Florence enough for the food though.

It was in Florence that I had my first normal Birra Moretti. As lagers go, this was pretty tasty. There is not a whole lot to it but there is a nice malty base and enough bitterness to balance it. I had it in bottle and on draught and the draught was better I thought. A good thirst quencher if nothing else is available other than peroni and Nastro Azzurro.


There were a few times when having Italian beer was a little boring because the sheer lack of it was a little depressing. A lot of places had bottles of Heineken and other muck like that but a I saw a few of these Ceres Strong ales and decided to give it a go.
It is 7.7 % so the strongest beer in Italy so far It has a strong malty base with fruity alcohol and a fruity bitterness, though what fruit I can not guess. It is tasty enough but nothing special, it does make a nice change to Italian lager though, even if this is more a strong lager than an ale. It does not seem to be listed on their website so seems to be mainly exported to Italy and probably some other countries too.

I am going to hold my hands up and say I was ill prepared for this trip in terms of beer. The biggest mistake was not printing out directions and addresses for places to go. I figured I could just get on the internet and find places once I had my bearings, unfortunately there is little to no free wi-fi in many of the places I was. As a result, I left Florence with very little to remember about the beer, even though I know there is at least one brewpub there and went to Rome. The other thing is that since I was not on my own I could not concentrate on beer tourism. I was with my mother and brother in law as well as my wife's aunt so it was old fashioned tourism all the way.

In Rome I found the same thing I did in Florence, bars everywhere but little to no beer and little in the way of Italian craft beer.

After finishing up at the Colosseum we found a nice restaurant nearby and I found this German wheat beer called Oberdorfer and was pleasandtly surprised to find it came in brown swingtops. Between myself and my wife we had 4 of them and I took the bottles home for homebrewing. The beer itself was a very respectable heffeweisse. The usual banana/clove thing was going on. There does not seem to be a website for the brewer so I am thinking it is a pretty small operation. If anyone knows then let me know so I can link up to it.


On my last full day in Rome (leave the next morning) I got a little breather, while everyone else went gift shopping, I had an hour to find some beer. I was in what is probably the biggest shopping area in Rome given that all the large names such as gucci, armani etc are all located here. I was hopeful for something and eventually I found what looked like a wine bar but had a long sit down bar (not normal for Italy I found) so I went in and found they had a few extra beers than the normal stuff. I had a pint of Hopfweisse hoping it was hopfenweisse but alas it was not. I am not sure which Hopf beer it was as it did not say but it was probably this one. I can not say for certain if it is but I did not enjoy it. It was not a typical weisse beer, little in the way of sweetness or banana/clove. It was actually rather bitter and it just seemed wrong.

The bar also had London pride on tap, I avoided temptation as I can get it any time in bottle at home.

So that is it for part one of my Italian trip and you might be thinking that I just said it was my last day in Rome? Well that evening, once all the tourist stuff was done deserves its own blog post.

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cat,1,revolution,1,Reykjavik,1,rhetoric,1,ridgeway,1,Rince Cochon,1,rip tide,1,riptide,1,rising sons,1,road dog,1,roadtrip,1,rochefort,1,Rochefort 10,2,Rodenbach,1,rogue beer,1,róisin,1,rome,1,rooie dop,1,rook and vuur,1,root canal,1,Rosé de Gambrinus,1,rosey nosey,1,round-up,2,roundup,2,ruddles,1,rugby,5,Russian imperial,1,russian river,1,rye river,2,saint bidgets porter,1,saint paul,1,Saint Petersburg,1,saison,2,saison 1900,1,Salthill,1,sam adams,1,Samichlaus,1,samual adams,2,samuel adams,1,samurai rice ale,1,san diego,1,san francisco,2,san sebastian,1,sanda black,1,Santa’s Little Helper,1,saranac,2,sassy red,1,satanic mills,1,saugatuck,2,sawtooth ale,1,scaldy porter,1,Schlapppeseppel,1,Schneider Weisse,3,Schneider Weisse Tap 4,1,scotland,1,second chance,1,Seeing red,4,Seeing red v2,2,seo,1,septemberfest,1,shady pale,1,shandon century stout,2,sharp's,3,sharps,1,shave or dye,1,sheepshagger,1,shephard neame,2,shepherd neame,2,sheridans,1,shipyard,1,shpherd neame,1,Sierra Nevada,10,Sierra Nevada Anniversary Ale,2,Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale,2,signal,1,Sigtina,1,singapore ipa. esb amber,1,Single Brew Reserve,1,sink the bismark,1,sixex,1,ska brewing,1,skyrim,1,slaters,1,sloop brewing,1,smithwicks,3,smoke jumper,1,smoked baltic porter,1,smoked porter,1,smooth ryed,1,smuggler,1,snake dog,1,sneck lifter,1,snow eater,1,Sorachi ace,1,Sorachi Ale,1,Sotholmon,1,sour beer,1,South Pacific Pale Ale,1,southern pecan,1,southern tier,2,Southwold Dark Ale,1,spain,2,spaten,1,speakeasy brewery,1,speakeasy payback porter,1,Special London ale,1,spelt saison,1,spindrift,1,Spitting Llama,1,Squealing Pig,1,St Bernardus,1,st bernardus 12,1,st eriks,1,St Idesbald,1,St Lupulin,1,st martin,1,St Peter's Cream Stout,1,st stefanus,1,stag saor,1,starr hill,1,stateline,1,Steen Brugge,1,Steep Trail,1,stella artois,1,steve wellington,1,stevens point,2,stewart brewing,1,stinger,1,stone,1,Stone and wood,1,stone barrel,1,stone brewing company,2,stone ruination ipa,1,stonewell,1,stoneybatter,1,story,1,stout,4,stout face off,1,straffe hendrick,1,Streaky,1,stumptown tart,1,sublimely self righteous ale,1,Sullivan's,2,summer,1,Summer IPA,1,summer lightning,1,summerwine,1,sunburnt Irish red,1,suntory,1,supervalu,1,sur amarillo,1,surrender to the void,1,survey,1,sushi,2,sweden,1,Swedish beer,1,sweetwater,1,sweetwater brewery,1,sydney,6,Syvturys,1,t-shirts,1,T' Pakhuis,1,tactical nuclear penguin,1,tally-ho,1,tangle foot,1,Tankovna,1,Tap X,1,tapster,1,taste test,2,tasting,1,tasting session,1,tawny 05,1,tayberry,1,tea,1,teeling,1,tempest,1,temple bar chocolate festival,1,terrible beer,3,tesco,1,thanks to the big boys,2,the banshee,1,the beast,1,the beer moment,1,The Big Lunch Beer Challenge,1,the black sheep,1,The Brewrey Tap,1,the bruery,1,the end of history,1,the fearless,1,the force,1,The Golden Pints Beer Awards 2010,1,The Great divide,3,the haka,1,The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy,1,The Late Night Levy,1,The little Brewing Company,1,the lord nelson,1,The Matt Brewing Company,1,the old stand,1,the oslo,4,the perfect publican,1,the rev james,1,The Rogue Hop,1,the salthouse,1,the session,42,the white hag,2,theakston,1,Thieving Bastards,1,thirsty bear,1,Thornbridge,6,three notched,1,thwaites,3,Thwaites double century,1,Tig Bhric,1,Tig Neachtain,1,timothy taylor,1,tis the saison,1,titan ipa,1,To Øl,3,tojo,1,tokyo*,1,tommyknocker,2,Tongerlo,1,toronado,1,torpedo,1,tralee,1,trappist beer,2,Traquair ale,1,Traquair House,1,trashy blonde,1,travel,30,travel notes,1,Treaty City,1,Tripple FFF,1,Trois Pistoles,1,Trouble Brewing,3,truck stop honey,1,tsar,1,tuatara,1,Turbo Yeast Utter Abhorrence from Beyond the Ninth Level of Hades III,1,twiglets,1,twitter,2,two hearted ale,1,Unertl,1,Unibroue,1,untappd,1,Urban Brewing,1,urbock,1,valentins,1,vandeoirsprong,1,Vapeur Cochonne,1,ventnor,1,versa,1,vertical tasting,1,very nutty black,1,vg noster,1,victory,1,Victory Golden Monkey,1,victory hop devil,1,victory hop wallop,1,victory storm king,1,video post,3,viginia,1,vintage ale,1,Vitesse Noir,1,vrienden,1,Waiheke Island,1,wainwright,1,warrior ipa,1,water shortage,1,website,1,Weihenstephan,1,Weihenstephaner,1,Weißenoher,1,Weisser Bock,1,Wellington,1,wells and youngs,1,Wells Banana bread beer,1,West Cork,1,western herd,1,westvleteren 12,2,wetherspoons,1,What Ales Ye?,1,what beer means to me,1,what's the matter lagerboy?,1,wheat beer,4,wheat wacker,1,wheat wine,1,Wheaty Goodness,2,whiplash,1,white gypsy,1,white gypsy vintage,1,White Island Wheaten Ale,1,White rabbit,1,white shield,1,whitewater,1,whychwood,1,wicked elf,1,Wickham Tap,1,wicklow brewery,1,wicklow wolf,2,widmer,1,wildcat,1,williams brothers brewery,8,windsor and eton,1,wine,1,winter ale,1,Winter Ales and Cask festival,3,winter lager,1,winter solstice,1,winter spirit,1,Wit,1,witty fella,2,wj kavanagh.,1,wobbly boot,1,woolpack,4,woolpacker,1,wordpress,1,world beer awards,1,world market,1,worlds best beers,1,wort,1,worthingtons,2,wrasslers,1,wynkoop,1,xx bitter,1,xx strong ale,1,yamamori,1,yardsman,2,yeti,1,york,1,young's,2,your local,1,yule ól,1,zero degrees,1,zeus,1,Zlatý Bažant,1,Zunbeltz,1,
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The Tale Of The Ale: In Italy, a bar serves coffee and little beer - Italy part one
In Italy, a bar serves coffee and little beer - Italy part one
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The Tale Of The Ale
http://www.taleofale.com/2009/10/in-italy-bar-serves-coffee-and-little.html
http://www.taleofale.com/
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